How to prepare for Hydroseeding in Olympia
I want to emphasize how important preparation is to growing a healthy, beautiful lawn. Creating an environment with good drainage, fertile soil with the proper nutrients will create a better environment for optimal growth.
The following sections offer general information for preparing your area for your new lawn. The better your preparation is, the better your lawn will grow and look.
WEED CONTROL AND SURFACE CLEAN-UP
Spray any weeds in the area with a broad spectrum weed control. Make sure that the weed control product does not have any residual effect on the soil (effects lasting more than 2 to 7 days). It is best to rake up and bag all debris after removing weeds to avoid leaving seeds in your soil. The hydroseeding mixture (called a slurry) is sprayed out of a hose with the consistency of a thick pea soup, and it needs to make contact with the soil in order for the grass seed to germinate and grow.
TESTING AND TILLING
Your new lawn needs 3 to 4 inches of new topsoil to provide guaranteed results. If the soil is hard-packed and you cannot dig a hole with your heel, you will probably need new topsoil. You might be tempted to skip this step, but you can’t do much about over-compacted soil after the lawn is planted and your lawn will be munch healthier if the roots can breathe. If you are bringing in new topsoil, put down at least 4 inches. A three way mix works well. If you are not bringing in new top soil, we recommend first having your soil tested and then prepared by roto-tilling to a depth of 5-6 inches. It is best to do this step before installing an irrigation system, but if you already have a system, be careful for PVC. Locate and mark the pipes with flags before tilling to save yourself the frustration of costly repairs. Tilling is a great time to work in some limestone, additional nutrients, organic matter, or other amendments indicated from the soil testing. Consider tilling in some quality compost materials, especially if your soils are low in organic matter (almost all soils are). The microbiology in your soil will love the grocery-store effect that the compost provides and will also help feed your new lawn.
GRADING
If you are planning to install an automated irrigation system, you might want to do it before grading and smoothing your lawn. Be sure to finish grade for smooth transition. Rake and level the soil to establish a rough grade. Slope soil to direct water away from foundations to eliminate drainage problems. Soil next to sidewalks, driveways, and patios should be approximately ¼” lower than the top of the surface to provide a smooth transition onto the new lawn.
Use a lawn or sod roller to finish the grade for smooth transitions and provide a firm soil surface, but don’t compact the soil too much. If you sink into the dirt a couple inches when stepping on it, you’ll need to firm up the soil some more. Remember, Olympia Hydroseeding will be walking back and forth over the soil with a heavy 2” hose. We don’t want you to see our footprints in your new lawn.
WHAT’S NEXT?
The next step can be the hardest for some. Soils contain native seed banks that can lay dormant until just the right conditions. By raking, tilling, and otherwise disturbing your soil, hidden seeds have been brought back to the surface and may begin germinating. You may not see them right away, but they’re there. These seeds will be much easier to deal with before hydroseeding your new lawn with mulch, fertilizer, and growth additives. So let them germinate. Water the area as though you had just planted grass. Water twice a day and try to water to a depth of about 1 inch. Allow about one week for these dormant seeds to germinate and show themselves before treating with a systemic herbicide (see above). Treat any areas showing signs of growth once or twice (use your best judgement) and then we can move onto the best part! Hydroseeding your new lawn
The following sections offer general information for preparing your area for your new lawn. The better your preparation is, the better your lawn will grow and look.
WEED CONTROL AND SURFACE CLEAN-UP
Spray any weeds in the area with a broad spectrum weed control. Make sure that the weed control product does not have any residual effect on the soil (effects lasting more than 2 to 7 days). It is best to rake up and bag all debris after removing weeds to avoid leaving seeds in your soil. The hydroseeding mixture (called a slurry) is sprayed out of a hose with the consistency of a thick pea soup, and it needs to make contact with the soil in order for the grass seed to germinate and grow.
TESTING AND TILLING
Your new lawn needs 3 to 4 inches of new topsoil to provide guaranteed results. If the soil is hard-packed and you cannot dig a hole with your heel, you will probably need new topsoil. You might be tempted to skip this step, but you can’t do much about over-compacted soil after the lawn is planted and your lawn will be munch healthier if the roots can breathe. If you are bringing in new topsoil, put down at least 4 inches. A three way mix works well. If you are not bringing in new top soil, we recommend first having your soil tested and then prepared by roto-tilling to a depth of 5-6 inches. It is best to do this step before installing an irrigation system, but if you already have a system, be careful for PVC. Locate and mark the pipes with flags before tilling to save yourself the frustration of costly repairs. Tilling is a great time to work in some limestone, additional nutrients, organic matter, or other amendments indicated from the soil testing. Consider tilling in some quality compost materials, especially if your soils are low in organic matter (almost all soils are). The microbiology in your soil will love the grocery-store effect that the compost provides and will also help feed your new lawn.
GRADING
If you are planning to install an automated irrigation system, you might want to do it before grading and smoothing your lawn. Be sure to finish grade for smooth transition. Rake and level the soil to establish a rough grade. Slope soil to direct water away from foundations to eliminate drainage problems. Soil next to sidewalks, driveways, and patios should be approximately ¼” lower than the top of the surface to provide a smooth transition onto the new lawn.
Use a lawn or sod roller to finish the grade for smooth transitions and provide a firm soil surface, but don’t compact the soil too much. If you sink into the dirt a couple inches when stepping on it, you’ll need to firm up the soil some more. Remember, Olympia Hydroseeding will be walking back and forth over the soil with a heavy 2” hose. We don’t want you to see our footprints in your new lawn.
WHAT’S NEXT?
The next step can be the hardest for some. Soils contain native seed banks that can lay dormant until just the right conditions. By raking, tilling, and otherwise disturbing your soil, hidden seeds have been brought back to the surface and may begin germinating. You may not see them right away, but they’re there. These seeds will be much easier to deal with before hydroseeding your new lawn with mulch, fertilizer, and growth additives. So let them germinate. Water the area as though you had just planted grass. Water twice a day and try to water to a depth of about 1 inch. Allow about one week for these dormant seeds to germinate and show themselves before treating with a systemic herbicide (see above). Treat any areas showing signs of growth once or twice (use your best judgement) and then we can move onto the best part! Hydroseeding your new lawn